Trekking in Darjeeling Hills and Sikkim

By Barun Roy

On the way from Bagdogra or Siliguri, the transport stops at Kurseong to give its occupants some relaxation. One can stretch ones limbs while looking around this little town known as a Sub-division of Darjeeling district. It commands a direct view of the plains nearly 5, 000 feet below.

The journey to Kalimpong, via Darjeeling, along the Peshok Road takes one through an almost virgin forest, interspersed occasionally by clearings where tea is grown and villages are to be found. Visitors will long remember the magnificient view that is seen from the View Point – half way down the Peshok Road. After traveling through a world bounded by gigantic trees, one rounds a bend and is presented suddenly with a glorious view of the valley and the towering mountains beyond. Far below, one can see the confluence of the Rangeet and Teesta Road Rivers, mingling together with a muffled roar in a swift flow of turbulent blue green water.

The town is centered around its large market square with the Deolo and Durbindara Hills to the North and South, respectively. The world knows St. Andrews’ Grahams Homes which is situated in the Deolo Hills. This School not only educates the children but also trains them up in all spheres of art and industry, so that when they leave school set out into the world, they are ready to take up any work without undergoing any further practical training.

Kalimpong has a feature of its own with its picturesque setting as it is the home in this district of Arts and Crafts Industry. During Haat (market) days, people from all surrounding bustees, villages and from the border of Sikkim are to be found holding stalls to sell their products such as vegetable, ghee (butter), foodgrains etc. After selling their products, they buy their requirements and prepare to return to their destinations after seeing a Cinema show and enjoying some Tibetan food and a glass of country liquor, Pachawal or Tongba, served in a hollowed bamboo container which refreshes them for their long tedious journey back.

Sikkim is situated to the North, forming a wedge between Bhutan to the East and Nepal to the West. The great Tibetan plateau lies to the north of Sikkim itself.

Although Sikkim is only 65 miles long and 45 miles broad, yet it contains some fo the finest mountain and ravine scenery in the world. The Kanchenjunga range is viewed in all its splendour, while the Everest massif can be seen from many advantageous points. The Teesta River with its tributaries drains Sikkim and the Teesta Valley is a magnificient gorge, wonderful and awe-inspiring when in flood. Sikkim has no low foot-hills when approached from the plains: the mountains descend abruptly on to the “Dooars” the famous tea district of Bengal and Assam.

Like Darjeeling District, Sikkim too was originally inhabited by the Lepchas. The Lepchas first settled in Sikkim in the 12^th Century, A. D. In 1641, most of them were converted to Buddhism by Lama Missionaries from Tibet, and they consecrated their Maharajah. Sikkim has weathered two foreign invasions and conquests. At present she is a state of the Indian Union.

Trekking in Sikkim presents no difficulties to the average trekker. Roads, bridle paths and Dak Bungalows are in evidence everywhere, and no fear need to entertained as to one’s personal safety or to their belongs. The best time for trekking is October and November.

A one day trip to Gangtok, capital of Sikkim should be on the itinerary of every visitor to Darjeeling. It is possible to trek it, taking advantage of the “Dak Bungalows” along the route, but most people do the 122 miles return trip by taxi. The first leg of the journey is done along the Peshok Road to Kalimpong and the Coronation Bridge over the Teesta River is reached. The road is narrow and tortuous, a marvel of engineering.

From the Coronation Bridge the road branches off towards Rangpoo, the border post between Darjeeling Hills and Sikkim. Another bridge is crossed-not as impressive as the Coronation Bridge – and one finds oneself in Sikkim.

The road at this stage of the journey runs parallel to the Teesta River – a swiftly running blue-green stream. Soon the road, leaving the river-side begins to wend its way gradually up-hill towards Gangtok.

The scenery during this stage of the journey is beautiful beyond description. One finds oneself at an elevation where it is neither too hot nor too cold. The car passes through rich cultivated fields, smiling in the pleasant sun.

Gangtok’s tiny market square – the focal point of the town presents one of the most picturesque scenes to be seen anywhere. Tibetans, Bhutanese, Sikkimese and Nepalese mingling about; mule caravans, with their wild-looking muleteers, plodding past with their bells tinkling gaily.

A visit to the Royal Palace is well worth while. Guards, clad in their traditional uniform, stand vigilant at the gates. The palace is perhaps one of the most beautiful specimens of its kind. The Lama dances held here in December attract hundreds of visitors. The state itself is well laid out and maintained.

With the construction of all weather road to the Nathula pass, the 14, 300 feet high pass into Tibet, visitors are given yet another opportunity of viewing some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the world. The road to Nathula passes through Karpanang, the Changu Lakes and Sherathang: it winds its way gradually up to a height of 14, 300 feet and its 34 and half miles from Gangtok.

The scenery at Nathula is grand and impressive. To the left arises a multitude of peaks which stand as a barrier between Sikkim and Tibet, while on the right, ravines lead down between lesser peaks. Rhododendron bushes cover the mountain sides, giving way to pine and fir trees at higher altitudes and waterfalls cascade down at regular intervals besides the road.

Foreign tourists’ seeking to visit Sikkim must apply for a permit to the Deputy Commissioner, Darjeeling, fro a trip to Gangtok. For Nathula Pass, an application for a special permit has to be obtained from New Delhi through the proper channel. For tourists coming through Delhi it is suggested that they make a direct and personal approach to the Ministry of External Affairs, New Delhi, which would facilitate the issue of such a permit. Applications made from Darjeeling may be delayed and should a tourist’s stay here be short, he may feel disappointed.

TREKS IN AND AROUND DARJEELING: The Darjeeling and Sikkim regions are a trekker’s paradise. Not only can there be found some of the world’s best mountain scenery, it is also of easy accessibility, thus making trekking a pleasure even for the least initiated.

The whole of the surrounding country is interesting with well maintained bridle paths, comfortable and well furnished Bungalows placed at easy stages along the route. Treks can extend from short ones of a few days, to longer ones lasting a month, and to even more ambitious ones that will bring trekker to the very foot of the everlasting snows.

Trekking in the District is of particular delight to the botanist and entomologist, who will encounter myriads of interesting specimens and species. Pleasure seekers without any hobby whatsoever, will still be adequately rewarded with vision of the snows, the ever changing effects of light and shadow on the forest – clad mountains, the fragrant air of the woodlands, or the bracing breezes on the mountain-tops. The whole area is a paradise for artists and photographers.

Intending trekkers should plan carefully in advance, as treks entail entry permits (in the case of Sikkim) reservations of Dak Bungalows, the hiring of porters, and an adequate supply of good provisions and other necessities. The best times of the year for trekking in the Darjeeling Region are between October and January, and during April and May. For further details and advice, it is best to contact the Government of India, Tourist Information Office, Above Indian Airlines (Now only Indian) , Nehru Road, Darjeeling.

TREK NO. 1 TO PHALUT AND BACK: This round-trek usually takes 8 days, and is one of the most popular, not only because it is short, but also because of the unsurpassable views that are seen of the Kanchenjunga and the Everest Ranges.

The whole trek can be done on foot, but it is also possible to shorten and simplify the trek by going by car to Maneybhanjyang, on the Nepal border. From Maneybhanjyang, one ascends to the Tonglu Dak Bungalow, a distance of 9 miles Tonglu (10,744 feet above sea level, looks directly on Darjeeling and commands a view of the Kanchenjunga Range as well as the whole range of Eastern Sikkim.

The next day’s march brings one to Sandakphu, 14 miles away. In clear weather the view from Sandakphu is never to be forgotten; the majestic beauty of the panorama that unfolds itself to the trekker exceeds anything that is to be seen on the face of the earth, as one gazes at the highest and mightiest mountain range in the world.

The last 12 and a half miles to Phalut are fairly simple, and the view from there is very similar to the one from Sandakphu, except for the setting of the foreground. The return journey is over the same route as the outward march.

TREK NO. 2 TO PAHLUT AND RETURN via JHEPI: Instead of returning from Phalut by the same road, an alternative route back to Darjeeling presents itself along the lower forest clad slopes. The round trips takes 9 days.

Leaving Phalut one drops down by a steep bridle path to the Rammam River 7,958 feet and 7 miles away. Crossing the junction of the Rammam and Khela rivers, the Rammam Forest Bungalow is reached after a two miles march. The valley is particularly beautiful with regard to its forestation, and for the interesting view that is obtained of the Kanchenjunga Range.

The next day’s 12 miles march to the Rimbick Bungalow (7,500 feet) is along a zig-zag road that leaves the forest, dips down to the Siri Khola river, corsses it and re-enters the forest a little before the Bungalow is reached. A good view of Darjeeling is seen, and there is an interesting little Buddhist Monastery a little way from the Bungalow.

The Jhepi bungalow 4, 100 feet is prettily situated near a rivulet whose banks are thickly clothed with wild cardamom: it is 11 miles away a road that gently rises and falls as it winds its way round the mountain side. There is a fairly large and prosperous village nearby.

The last leg of the journey to Darjeeling is via Pul Bazaar. The road drops to 2,195 feet, where it crosses the little Rangneet, and the last 8 miles to Darjeeling entails a steep and steady climb. A Land Rover may be ordered to meet one 4 miles down this road.

TREK NO. 3 PHALUT AND PEMIONGCHI: Proceeding to Phalut via Maneybhanjyang, Tonglu and Sandakphu, one makes a long march of 17 miles to Dentam. The march, though long has few equals in the variety and beauty of the scenery that is met with. Leaving Phalut the road takes a short climb to the Singalila Ridge (12, 200 feet at Singalila Point) along which it travels for 3 miles. The grassy, boulder strewn mountain side, gay with flowers, and with the snows always in view, presents a pretty picture. Plunging downwards for 11 miles the road drops 8,000 feet, passing through a variety of vegetation shortly how cold it is up in Phalut, at the start of the march, it is very warm in Dentam. There is a small bazaar in the neighbourhood.

The climb to Pemiongchi, 6,920 feet, begins with the next day’s trek. The 11 miles march is enlivened by some very beautiful scenery, including scenery, including cascading waterfalls and gorgeous orchids. The full beauty of the Sikkim forests strikes one during the march to Pemiongchi.

Pemionngchi is remarkable for its monastery and different angle at which Kanchenjunga is viewed. The monastery of Sanga Choling is the older and largest in Sikkim and it means “The Sublime Perfect Lotus”. A beautiful view of the surrounding country-side can be obtained from the monastery and it is itself of great interest.

The return journey is via Rimchenpong (6,300 ft), Chakung (5,100 ft) and Badamtam (2,500 ft). The route however, can be shortened by 1 day by making a double march of 20 miles from Chakung direct to Darjeeling via Singla, Barnesbeg and Takvar Tea Estates.

FISHING: The Terai, the District’s lower region provides excellent small and big game shooting. The Teesta group of rivers – the Sevoke, Kalijhora Riyang and Gielle Khola – provide excellent fishing. A note worthy fact is the approachability of all these rivers by car from Darjeeling.

Mahseen Kutli and Indian Trout are the main sporting fish available and the best fishing months are April, May and end of June. There is no closed season. A point to be remembered is that there are few facilities for buying rods and tackles in Darjeeling.

Licenses and other details can be had from the Divisional Forest Officer, Darjeeling.